Today, our last full day in Okinawa, we are touring sites of more recent history. We toured the Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Park, monument, and museum. Designed to shout to the world the resiliency of Okinawans and their never-ceasing prayer for peace, the park is a Vietnam Memorial-like park with the names of all those who died in WWII inscribed in granite pieces. Not only Okinawans' names are listed but those of their rulers, Japanese soldiers, as well as Americans who died. In all, 230,000 names are listed. The museum is a snapshot of the disgusting and horrid things that happen during wars. It certainly brings the idea of peace to the forefront of one's thoughts.
We also visited the Japanese Navy underground headquarters’ shelter. It was amazing to think all the tunnels and rooms were created by hand with just hoes and pickaxes. During the Battle of Okinawa, the U.S. destroyed much of the bunker and great numbers of Japanese soldiers committed suicide rather than risk being taken prisoner.
Lastly, we went on a shopping spree at Okinawa's famed "Miracle Mile" of shops on Kokusa Street.
An additional great thing about Okinawa is the best dish of salmon I've ever had -- at Tony Roma's BBQ Restaurant! And, for our last meal on the island, the best Italian food -- at The Rose Garden!
Unfortunately, our last activity was to pack and go to bed early.
David
May 5 --
Today, we turn our attention toward China beginning with a 3 hour layover in Fukuoka, Japan, on our way to our final destination, Beijing. While we are definitely excited to being our stay in "Sophie Land", Okinawa prepares to bid us farewell. With skies heavy with total cloud cover and mists of tears falling, no doubt because we are leaving, it is appropriate as I leave here reluctantly and with a sad heart.
I have made a connection both to the people here as well as my past. The people are incredible, for a people and a land with their devastating history. The ruler of Japan took over all Ryuyku Islands including Okinawa centuries ago. Many Okinawans emigrated to surrounding countries. Those that stayed were forced into an indoctrination program designed to "Japan-ize" them. New names, culture, language, and history.
During WWII, Okinawans again found themselves in the middle of a war not of their choosing. As the U.S. troops drew near, the Japan military forced the majority to commit suicide ad to kill one another, as did the soldiers themselves. Those left alive soon either died of starvation or tried to emigrate.
During the 3 month long Battle of Okinawa, the U.S. pummeled Okinawa relentlessly -- the "typhoon of steel". Those seeking to leave the island on boats, women and children, were sunk or blown up by U.S. warships and submarines. After the war, Okinawans still had to put up with the U.S. colonization of the island, finally giving the land back to the Okinawan Prefectural government in 1972.
Despite all of this, the Okinawans consider themselves "peace-loving Okinawans with a heart of hospitality". Ironically, the last homily we heard at mass before we left the U.S. was about hospitality and how it is at the core of Christian values. Too many Americans use tolerance as the litmus test. However, hospitality goes far beyond that -- to total acceptance of the individual. Everyone here surely treated us as royalty. I hasten to add that it wasn't because we were Americans. We were just simply fellow human beings.
This has been the trip of a lifetime for me. I will never forget my experience here. Previously, all through my life, the fact that I was born in Okinawa was only a curiosity. Okinawa was a distant land somewhere across the world, a land that I had no connection to or concept of. It was a hazy ideal, shadows and fog in the periphery of my mind's eye. Now I have clear focus on this beautiful island gem. My only regrets are that my mom could not travel with us and that I won't have the opportunity to talk to my dad about this land. I have so many specific questions now!
As the sun was setting on the land of the rising sun, we arrived in Beijing, and . . . we're not in Kansas any more Toto! As we are finding out, life in a semi-Communist country differs slightly than the way to which we are accustomed!
First, for overweight luggage on China Air, we paid the equivalent of the cost of a used motorcycle. Secondly, we've had some issues with the air-conditioning in our 4-star hotel -- there isn't any! Apparently, something magical happens on May 8 as that's when the air will be turned on.
Of course, we're departing Beijing on May 8. And, lastly, we caused a major fiasco regarding a magazine that was supposed to be in our hotel room. Because of the air-conditioning issue, we were moved to another room which at least had air, if not air-conditioning. Housekeeping immediately checked our old room and discovered a magazine (written in Chinese) missing from that room. The housekeeping staff apparently sees us in some espionage plot to take their advertisements. Oh well, what's a little adventure without misadventure!
David
May 6 --
First of all, I'll warn you that I'm not the eloquent writer that David is. From me, you'll just get a factual account!
May 1 to May 7 is Labor Holiday in China, so every tourist spot we visit is extremely crowded. Beijing and its suburbs has a population of 16 million and with all the Chinese tourists here, it has expanded to much more than that.
We've become a sort of tourist attraction ourselves. Apparently many of the Chinese tourists visiting Beijing from the country have only seen Americans in movies. So, like movie stars they take photos of us! Some are sneaky, casually walking by, quickly snapping a photo, and then running away giggling. Others are brave enough to walk up to us, say "Welcome to China" and ask to have their photo taken with us.
Today, we visited Tiananmen Square which is bordered by Mao's Tomb, the People's Congress and the Forbidden City. We were warned not to discuss politics while we were in the Square. The Forbidden City is much smaller than it was 600 years ago but it still took us about 2 hours to walk through it. It was home to the Emperor and his family. The last Emperor reigned until 1925. With the upcoming Olympic Games in 2008, the government is spending allot of money to renovate the buildings in the Forbidden City -- especially painting the outside with the original mineral-based (not chemical-based) paints and gold leaf.
We also visited the Temple of Heaven where the Emperor would go to fast and worship the gods. I was horrified to see in gory detail a description of the sacrificing of calves which was part of the ceremonial rite. (For those of you who don't know, I grew up on a farm where we raised cattle.)
Lastly, a quick stop at the Beijing Zoo to see the pandas. While they had more pandas, the ones we saw on our visit to the San Diego Zoo in 2005 had more distinctly colored coats (sharper black vs. white contrast) and we had a much closer & clearer view then.
We weren't quick enough to snap a photo but we saw a little shop advertising "Sophie's Birthday Cakes" & "Sophie's Fresh Bread"!
Tomorrow, we have more tours and then Tuesday we'll be flying to Sophie's province. Sadly, we learned this evening that Sophie's orphanage does not allow parents to tour the inside. We'll only be able to see the outside of the building. Also, they don't allow the foster moms to bring the babies to you. So, we won't meet the lady who has been caring for Sophie since she was 23 days old.
